Wednesday, 13 December 2017

Tamar Valley

The Tamar River is another deep inlet with Launceston deep inland. We based ourselves at Low Head, on the eastern side of the Tamar, quite close to George Town.

The rain had started again, and we debated whether to put up our annex in the rain. We decided it would be nicer to have its shelter, only to regret that when the wind blew up in the evening. We debated putting the annex down again, but as we have to fold the Avan right down to do that, we went to bed hoping all would be well.  But, after the main pole had blown into the van twice, we knew there was no hope for it, so 1.30am saw us outside putting the annex down.  The wind was some of the strongest we've had, with the strength of one gust actually pushing the side wall so hard it forced the restraining bolt to the other side of its catch.  We quickly put it back, and it didn't recur but we spent an anxious day inside, waiting for the gale to stop.

The next day we got out and about again, heading off to Beauty Point to Seahorse World and Platypus House.  Seahorse World was wonderful, although you can only see the seahorse on the tour, so it was probably a shorter visit than we would have liked.

They breed seahorse for aquariums around the world and have masses of seahorses at all stages of development.




They also have touch tanks and some display aquariums.



Platypus House had 5 platypus and 3 echidnas, again on a tour basis.  We were shocked to learn that a male platypus spur can inject 100ml of toxin that gives agonising swelling for about a month, or even longer!  The toxin is very variable so there is no antidote, and painkillers are ineffective. Moral of the story - DON'T pick up a platypus!


The echidnas were very cute, and we learned they have 18cm tongues!  Echidnas are very common in Tassie and we've seen heaps out in the wild, but it was cool to see them licking up their food.


We also drove up to Green Beach to look at Low Head from the other side of the Tamar.


We visited Woolmer Estate, originally to see the 'National Rose Garden', but were entranced by the house.  A quirk of circumstance has meant that it has retained all of its 1840s furniture and decoration, although some fabrics were replaced in the 1930s.  It is an utterly amazing time-capsule. There are also four renaissance artworks from the early 1700s hanging in the foyer!


Woolmers and its sister property, Brickendon, are jointly listed as a world heritage convict site. There are five world heritage convict sites in Tasmania: Port Arthur, the Coal Mines, The Cascades Female Factory, Maria Island and Woolmers/Brickendon. This is a happier convict place, where the convicts were well treated and even paid. Some stayed on after their sentences were completed, and Thomas Archer, the owner, was active in seeking an end to transportation.   There is even convict graffiti on the walls of the wool-shed.


The rose garden is recently established, and is gorgeous. It is absolutely massive!


One of the main reasons we stayed in Low Head was to go on their penguin tour.  Such a far cry from Phillip Island, and much more personal.  A great tour.



The Low Head lighthouse is very old, and has penguins nesting in its grounds.


A wonderful surprise was the Bass and Flinders centre, which holds replica wooden boats, including a copy of Bass and Flinders' vessel, the Norfolk. It was used to recreate their circumnavigation of Tasmania, before becoming a magnificently hands on exhibit.  We all clambered down into the Captain's cabin and greatly enjoyed our tour.



We visited the famous Bridstowe Lavender Farm, home of Bobby Bear.  The lavender wasn't in full flower yet, but we enjoyed the tour explaining the growing and distilling process.




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